THE snow is thick underfoot in the medieval Czech city of Brno as this bearded bloke in a cossack hat and a magnificent fur coat plays his clarinet on the open air Christmas Market stage in Freedom Square.
Behind him a bunch of burly bruisers punch the air happily as they belt out patriotic Ukrainian folk songs.
I am amazed though that, with the temperature five degrees below zero, one chap is beaming happily despite only wearing a flimsy white shirt and a traditional embroidered waistcoat.
Then I watch him reach inside his pocket, pull out a little flask, take a huge swig and stagger a little as he offers it to his mates before, with a huge grin, stowing it safely away again.
Well, booze is half the fun in Brno, nestling in the heart of the country’s wine-growing South Moravia region. Especially at the Christmas Market, spread across four city centre squares.
Hundreds of stalls sell mulled wine, punch, grog, mead and all kinds of alcoholic concoctions.
Tullamore Dew is a big favourite, while one stand advertises Dublin Punch – a rather heady blend of whiskey and cider, flavoured with ginger and various spices.
At 75 crowns, or €3, for a large mug, it’s just the job to warm me up as the snow starts swirling down again. But I daren’t risk a second!
There’s a splendid array of food, too. Chestnuts roast on braziers, while clouds of smoke waft into the air as giant sausages sizzle away on barbecues.
There are salamis as long as my forearm and some scrumptious crisp potato pancakes whose name, after supping that Dublin Punch, I forget.
But the market is not all about food and drink.
There’s a huge range of gifts on sale too – handknitted scarves, jumpers, gloves and mittens, kiddies’ finger puppets, wooden toys, quirky jewellery and pottery, colourful candles, jars of honeyinfused marmalade, chocolates, Christmas baubles, wine (South Moravia claims theirs are as fine as anything from neighbouring Austria) and much, much more.
Next to an open-air skating rink is a huge 33ft illuminated Ferris wheel, a life-size carved nativity scene, a kids’ petting zoo and, to add magic, a colourful Christmas-decorated tram running back and forth through the city.
So little wonder the city, nestling in the shadow of the imposing 13th century Spilberk Castle, was voted this year’s European Capital of Christmas.
But, modestly, locals admit they can really only offer visitors the SECOND best Christmas in the world.
“Second,” my smiling guide Martina explains, “to the Christmas you spend at home!”
This year’s festivities start on Friday and run until December 23, and it’s worth checking out some of the other markets in surrounding villages and towns, like the extremely picturesque but impossible to pronounce Znojmo.
You can fly direct to Brno, but most visitors, like me, head first for Prague before taking one of the frequent trains south.
There’s plenty to see in Prague, with medieval Charles Bridge spanning the Vltava River and the 15th century astronomical clock in the heart of the Old Town Square.
Crowds gather each hour to watch wooden statues of the 12 apostles appear, surrounded by four figures representing Lust, Vanity, Greed and Death.
GO: BRNO
FLY THERE: Aer Lingus and Ryanair both fly direct to Prague, with trains going from there to Brno.
STAY THERE: I recommend the very comfortable Miss Sophie’s Downtown hotel. In Brno I stopped at the central Hotel Passage and in Znojmo, as more snow fell, at the cosy Hotel Clemar.
